Dark Spots & Hyperpigmentation

Why dark spots form

Melanin is the pigment your skin uses to protect itself from the sun. When there's too much of it in one place, a darker patch forms. This happens for three reasons.

The most common types of facial hyperpigmentation are:

• sun spots and age spots, which form after years of sun exposure; hyperpigmentation on the forehead, cheeks and nose is the most common;
• post-acne marks, the red or brown traces left after a pimple heals;
• melasma, larger symmetrical patches on the cheeks and above the upper lip, triggered by hormones and deepened by the sun.

All three types have one thing in common: the sun darkens them. That's why SPF is the first step, even before you choose a serum.

How to fade dark spots

You can't get rid of dark spots overnight, but you can visibly fade them in two to three months. A good routine does three things at once: it slows down the production of new pigment, speeds up skin renewal so pigmented cells shed sooner, and protects your skin from the sun.

Post-acne marks are the easiest case, because they fade on their own over time and the right ingredients speed this up. Melasma is the most stubborn and tends to come back, so with melasma, plan on long-term care and SPF every day.

Ingredients for dark spots that work

Korean skincare for dark spots relies on ingredients that brighten your skin without irritating it:

• vitamin C, an antioxidant that slows down melanin production and brings back your glow;
• alpha-arbutin, which inhibits the enzyme that produces pigment and is gentler than classic brighteners;
• tranexamic acid, which also works on stubborn dark spots and melasma;
• niacinamide, which slows the transfer of pigment to the skin's surface and evens out skin tone;
• azelaic acid, which fades post-acne marks while also calming inflammation and redness;
• glutathione and rice water as extra support.

You don't need all of them at once. One brightening serum that you use consistently does more than five products you keep switching between.

A routine for dark spots

Morning:

• gentle cleansing and toner;
• a vitamin C serum or a niacinamide serum;
• moisturizer;
• SPF 50, every day, even when it's cloudy.

Evening:

• double cleansing to remove SPF;
• a serum with arbutin, tranexamic acid or azelaic acid;
• a hyperpigmentation cream or a soothing cream with snail mucin.

Once a week, add an enzyme exfoliant that removes pigmented dead skin cells, and a brightening mask. Retinal can be added in the evening on acid-free days, because it speeds up skin renewal.

Why SPF is the most important step for dark spots

The sun is the main cause of dark spots and the main reason they come back. Just a few minutes of unprotected sun can undo weeks of care. That's why you should apply a face sunscreen every morning, even in winter and on cloudy days.

Korean sunscreens are lightweight and leave no white cast, so they're easier to apply every day. Choose SPF 50 with PA++++. Apply enough, about two finger-lengths of cream for your face and neck. If you spend a lot of time outdoors, reapply during the day; a sun stick makes this easiest.

What to avoid with dark spots

• harsh scrubs, because irritation triggers new pigment;
• squeezing pimples, because each one can leave a mark that lasts for months;
• using every brightening ingredient at once, because irritated skin darkens;
• switching serums after three weeks, because the first results only show after six to eight;
• expecting melasma to disappear for good; care calms it down, and SPF keeps it light.

Dark spot care at dglow

For dark spots at dglow, you can choose from brightening serums, creams, masks, an enzyme exfoliant and SPF. The most popular is the ANUA Azelaic Acid serum with 10% azelaic acid, which fades post-acne marks. It's followed by the BEAUTY OF JOSEON serum with rice and alpha-arbutin, the PURITO vitamin C serum with 5% vitamin C and glutathione, and the SKIN1004 ampoule with tranexamic acid and niacinamide.

For your basics, choose one brightening serum, a moisturizer and SPF. Then add an enzyme exfoliant and a mask if needed. A dark spot cream makes sense as a second step once you're already using a serum.