Acne & Blemishes

Why skin gets even oilier after aggressive skincare

When you strip your skin with a harsh cleanser or an alcohol-based toner, it's left without its protective lipid film. Skin reads this as water loss and responds with increased sebum production. A cycle sets in: the more you cleanse, the oilier your skin gets, and the more blemishes you get.

So the first step with acne isn't a stronger product, but gentler cleansing and repairing the skin barrier. Only once the skin is no longer irritated do targeted ingredients actually get a chance to work.

Ingredients that actually work for acne

There's no universal ingredient for acne, but there are a few that acne-prone skin generally tolerates well and that are common in Korean skincare:

• niacinamide, which regulates sebum production, calms redness, and softens the dark marks left behind after a healed blemish;
• azelaic acid, which is anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and works against post-acne pigmentation, and in Korean formulas comes in lower, better-tolerated concentrations;
• salicylic acid, or BHA, which is oil-soluble and therefore penetrates the pore, where it dissolves plugs, useful for blackheads and closed comedones;
• heartleaf and Centella, which don't treat acne directly but calm inflamed skin and so shorten healing time.

You don't need all of them at once. It's better to start with one targeted product and only then judge whether your routine needs more steps.

A four-step routine for acne-prone skin

Morning:

• a gentle cleanser that doesn't leave skin tight;
• a niacinamide serum;
• a lightweight moisturizer;
• SPF 50.

Evening:

• double cleansing, first a cleansing oil, then a foam;
• a targeted serum with azelaic acid or BHA, if your routine needs it;
• moisturizer.

Don't combine acids and retinal on the same evening. Introduce new active products one at a time and wait at least two weeks before adding the next one. Otherwise you won't know what helped you and what irritated you.

Pimple patches and targeted care for individual breakouts

Hydrocolloid patches are the fastest fix for a single inflamed pimple. They absorb the fluid, protect it from touching, and significantly reduce the chance of scarring.

They work on pimples with a visible head, not on deep cystic inflammation under the skin. Those need time and rest, but a patch at least keeps you from squeezing them.

What not to do with acne

• don't squeeze pimples, because you push the inflammation deeper and prolong healing;
• don't exfoliate every day, because you irritate the skin barrier;
• don't skip moisturizer, because dry skin gets oilier;
• don't skip SPF, because the sun darkens post-acne marks and makes them more stubborn;
• don't expect results in a week; skin renews itself in a cycle of about 28 days.

Acne-prone skincare at dglow

At dglow, for acne-prone skin you can choose from cleansers, toners, targeted serums, lightweight creams, masks, and pimple patches. Instead of the longest possible routine, identify your main concern first, because skin with occasional blemishes doesn't need the same approach as skin with inflamed acne and the dark spots it leaves behind.